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My flow is slow once I open the second valve after the first one is pressurized. What do I do?

The pitting was my problem. Thank you!! I never would have figured that out. I assumed bad o-rings.

I have 10 of model-375xL and I have one bad is draining hot water?

How about if the water don't stop running?🤔🤔🤔

How about leaks into the ez flush?

Who has 25psi available this days...

Floor tilt drain, rectangular floor, 2 3 3 4 cm corner thickness, quide rails, corner well. Volume with 3 cm thickness.

There no crd what happened?

The number one reason is you bought a sensor faucet instead of a real one. Who ever said it was REALLY REALLY HARD to turn the handle on and off anyway? That has never been a problem. You want it on, you turn it on. When you are done, you turn it off. Now its very complicated and a thousand things can go wrong AND I have to buy batteries and have the damn thing replace when it stops for no fucking reason like all of these shitty things do.

I bought a new 975xl2 and while looking it over and opening and closing the valves, some water came out. Is that normal?

I bought a new one and while looking over and opening and closing the valves some water came out. Is that normal?

very nice sir ji

Hi

Ours says 600, not 600xl. Does it make a difference for repairs?

Looks easy when the assembly is not against the house.

Great refresher video for me, thanks! I haven't touched a carrier in 6 years and am now plumbing lead on a government job. I can't seem to find my answer and plan on calling Zurn tomorrow. Nothing in any pdf's I found or my submittals, but there is no mention of the diameter of the bearing rod (4 rods that carry the WC). A rest area I did long ago had to have the carriers go through a block wall, so I had to use the max 12" couplings. This new job, same situation, but I have some double carriers going in and the wet wall leaves the face of the carrier just a smidge off from even the 12" couplings being able to hit my needed 5/16" through finish wall. Do you know if Zurn has anything over 12" these days? Or a coupling for the coupling? Extension adapter, or anything? Crazy how the government can demand I follow strict rules but their engineers make things impossible to do to specs that they set. Lastly, I've done tons of carriers and have always used 3/8" rod and drop ins for my feet anchoring. The specs for the these carriers say 1/2". If the space is as I remember on the holes of the feet, 1/2" won't be possible to have the slightest wiggle room, and wiggle room in anchoring is a must. Again, I plan on calling Zurn but having Q and A on these type of videos saves people much more time and only benefits the manufacturers if you can answer any of these Q's. The carriers I'm going to be working with are the Z1201-N4's and the Z1201-ND4's. Thanks again!

Getting zurn to stand by their backflows is a joke

Great video. What are the specs for pressure at the 2-3-4 test cock positions. Thanks for the quick informative video.

How do you connect the second pipe without being able to twist the assembly??

Hi John! I went to the training years ago when the other John was giving the training! I worked at R&B Company! The cool shirts. Thanks for the videos!

hi. i’d like to be put in touch with one of the a-hole sailors you mentioned in the video. thanks!

We have 35 of these installed and it takes anywhere from an hour to two hours to spend them up because the blue over cap breaks off. Can you please demonstrate how to do this?

6 years after you first posted this video, it’s still helping people like me! I got massively wet today trying to figure out what was happening. Then I got mad at my sprinkler guy. Then I decided to look it up and he actually winterized correctly, lol! Going to try to close the test cocks tomorrow. Thank you

The most beneficial way to pressurize any assembly especially after a repair is to utilize a jumper hose from test port 1 to test port 2 and introduce water before opening the #1 shutoff valve. Once the assembly is pressurized carefully open shutoff #1 and bleed any trapped air via the test ports.

Do you have a video on how to remove the check seat? Thanks.

What tool do I use to get the seat out? I heard you can use the back of a crescent wrench? Do you have a video on how to remove the check seat?

Valueless. How does one adjust temperature.

So power is out, can't operate manually? I guess it needs new batteries but its a keyed Allen key!!! Are you f-ing serious?!? I'm so freaking mad I could spit. THANKS ZURN!!! GOOD JOB, I HOPE SOMEBODY GOT TO GO HOME EARLY ON THIS PROJECT.

love these vids.

C

Epic technology!

i always wondered about this weep hole, i test and repair close to 240 assemblies a year, and only have about a dozen or so of those are wilkins, and this seems to be common in them, after watching this video, i now know more about issue and how to resolve, which i just ordered a complete repair kit anyways, but is good to know that it is just that o-ring for future dealings, thanks for video, i learned something new today.

I stopped listening around 8:00 when that synthwave vibe kicked in

Good work

Wowhe didn't get dirty

So you're just going to ignore the other components that came with this assembly?

Excellent tutorial! I successfully installed a replacement diaphragm and sealing rings kit using this procedure. Thank you!

Love & Miss him! All the videos are very helpful.

Good information

Nice

You are the best sir. Thank you for this video

Hello , does the NR3XL act as a check valve, or does the "integral bypass" allow thermal expansion to go back to supply past the prv?

Thank you! The technician who tested my back flow valve left one open. I wanted to verify how to close it before attempting.

What if it flushes without anyone being in the stall (Ghost Flushing)?

Good job, thank you!

OK but how do you replace them

👍

It doesn't come with the mixing valve?

Replaced diaphragm and urinal Kept flushing , you think problem with the sensor ?

What size allen wrench do I need to remove the sensor/valve body?